The space of your blazer will determine how “balanced” your chest muscles is to your lower torso. The blazer should end around mid to lessen crotch. Mid-crotch if you’re under 5ft 9inches, less than that if you’re taller than 5′ 9″.
A tailor can shorten your coat up to an inch without ruining it’s proportions, nonetheless they can’t ever really let much out because there’s no fabric there. Overall, you generally want this part to already be perfect when you’re buying a blazer, even off of the rack.
Crotch Measurements for blazers men
BLAZER SLEEVE LENGTH
While wearing the blazer – when you flex your wrist, which means that your hands are facing the bottom, the sleeves should be about ¼” above the top of your side. A lot of people advise that it hits the most notable of your hands, but that’s bullshit – then nothing of your clothing sleeve will be displaying. This length permits a bit (¼”) of your clothing sleeve to peek through. If your sleeves are much longer, a tailor can simply fix that. If they’re shorter by more than an inches, ditch the jacket, the sleeves can’t be discrete enough to match properly.
You want the make seams of the blazer to get rid of where your shoulder blades end – where they start curving right down to your arm, essentially. You need to see no divots or wrinkles in the shoulders anywhere. The shoulder blades should lay perfectly flat, with no divots or rumpling or tugging on the shoulder blades. If you have more rounded shoulders, the seam should still result in the same place, you’ll just need a bit more padding in the shoulders to make them appear less rounded. If the shoulder blades are too large or small, a tailor will employ a hard time mending this, and it might be very costly – if it was even possible. So ensure these fit properly when buying a blazer from everywhere, as well.
With the top button fastened (never the bottom button), the blazer should casually hug your midsection, but not feel restricted or constricting. It shouldn’t be tugging at the button, creating an unsightly “X”. The X mean’s it’s too small. If it’s roomy around your stomach/waist area, you can (and should!) have a tailor take in the sides of the coat so it will fit properly. That is an extremely easy and common fix for a tailor to do. Remember: For tailoring purposes, it’s easier to have a coat that’s slightly too large in the torso than too small.
The collar should relax against your top collar, which should rest against the back of your neck of the guitar. Many of these should touch softly, without significant spaces in between. If there’s a gap, it’s too loose. If there’s bunching slightly below the back of the coat collar, it’s too small or the stance of the coat is off.
They must be high, however, not so high that they’re reducing into your armpit. The picture below shows where the armholes should be on your blazer. Notice it’s not slicing into his armpit? They must be large enough that you don’t notice them, but not so big to have a few extra inches wide in the middle of your armpit and the bottom of the hole. The biceps and triceps can move relatively independently of the jacket’s body during normal motion, but not exceedingly.
While we aretalking about blazers and action, a lot of men who are not used to putting on dress clothes usually complain that they must be in a position to move their arms more while putting on them. Without a doubt a blazer is not activewear, so don’t think you should be in a position to do all you normally do while wearing a blazer. It’s not built for that goal.
The blazer’s second button from underneath (aka the top button) should lie just above your belly-button, never below. our rule of thumb is only about an inches above and never, ever below. Usually it’ll toss off your body’s proportions and you’ll look really peculiar.